ACROSS AUSTRALIA- DAY THREE ON THE INDIAN PACIFIC TRAIN

The hospital tried to stay alive by asking people to get "Crook" sick in Cook

In its "heyday" it cost $3 to play the nine holes. In 100 plus degrees?

After travelling all night from Adelaide we were awakened at 7am in time to prepare for entering the metropolis of Cook; population two. Cook was a town of 300 as recently as 1998; its sole purpose to service the National Railroad. The town boasts a school, swimming pool, hospital, post office and railroad service yards. It even has a golf course without a single blade of grass; a true links course with packed sand greens. The hospital had so little business that amid concerns about being closed by the government, people stopping over on the railroad were encouraged to "...get crook on Cook." (Crook being 'strine for sick).

When the government decided to get out of the railroad business in the '90s, privatizing its interests, Cook became an instant ghost town -an example of how changing government policy can have trickle down consequences.

Today Crook is used only as a changeover point for locomotive drivers, and a refueling stop after a long night run- just before the train starts to cross the Nullibor. This is the only reason we had a chance to stretch our legs. There's no platform, and steps have been placed at the exit doors. The conductor gives us all a stern warning not to cross the tracks, as passing trains in other directions likely will not slow down.. And above all be ready to board when the whistle blows- there are no overnight accommodations in Cook. Not a more desolate railroad stop in the world, with summertime temperatures about 155 degree, and a single digit of annual rainfall. We tried to find some remains of the golf course, but the site could not be distinguished, nature having taken it back. In a few more years there will be little left of this lonely reminder of times past.

Across Australia- Day Two on Indian Pacific Train

Sunday was spent between Broken Hill and Adelaide looking out at mostly barren plains.

That is when one isn't enjoying the lounge car. The bar is behind Elysee in the background.

Leaving Broken Hill mid-morning out train passed through mile after mile of flat bush country devoid of habitation and enterprise. After turning south towards Adelaide there is sufficient annual rainfall to allow viable agriculture. For the last 200 miles you pass through large wheat farms of 3000 acres or more, grazing cattle and many vineyards. We are in the state of South Australia, and Adelaide is proud to have been the first to seriously develop a wine making industry. Today South Australia leads all other states in wine production. Adelaide also leads Australia in automobile manufacturing, and is generally prosperous in many other areas besides agriculture.

Adelaide was settled in 1836, greatly expanded after the great gold rush of 1851, and the center of the city bears the markings of a wonderfully preserved Victorian city. An interesting tale.

Adelaide's main street is King William Street. When the King agreed to have the street named after him, he gave permission provided no street named after a commoner would cross his. This became no small problem as side streets were named after early settlers. Since there were a lot more of them than Kings the problem was solved by a cross street proceeding up to King William Street with one name and continuing on the other side with name of someone else. Ingenious!

We only had about six hours in Adelaide, took a city tour, and left about 6:30. Unfortunately, I left my camara on the train, so no pictures of beautiful Adelaide. Reboarding the Indian Pacific for a long night's journey north, then west along the barren plains. Dinner once more in wonderful period dining car and then off to the lounge car. Great way to travel. I highly recommend it.