CRISSCROSSING AUSTRALIA-Esperance & Telegraph Farm

(Excerpted from my book Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand Amazon.com)

Hi Elysee, I'm Joe Camel Hey, Anything for us Ostrich's?

After leaving Kalgoorlie we headed south towards Esperance a town in the Great Australian Bight of the southern ocean and about as far from everything as one can get. We were scheduled to visit the Recherche Islands which was the site of great whale and seal hunting grounds from the 19th century. The name for islands were taken from two French ships that explored the area in the early part of the 19th century, raising concerns in London about French colonization and causing the British to spur settlement in the region. Thankfully, due to nine foot seas, our excursion to the islands was cancelled. Instead we visited Telegraph Farm, much to our good fortune. That is a place we easily could have passed by and I consider myself fortunate indeed that we left the pods of seals to another time.

The farm's owners John and Gwen Starr are pioneers in methods of farm diversification as an alternative to raising sheep. Sheep farms in Australia are consolidating, where a minimum of 4,000 sheep are necessary for. The Starr's 1300 acres were becoming insufficient. Instead of giving up farming they went the alternative way.

Animal husbandry is the main feature of Telegraph Farm's strategy. John raises, breeds and cross breeds animals adaptable to Australia, while producing animals that are leaner and more compatible with today's increasing understanding of nutrition and health.

For example, John has both Indian and African Buffalo and their cross strains, the same for African Wapiti, Canadian Elk. and ostrich. These animals are not only leaner they have less impact on the land. For example replacing Herefords with buffalo. During a recent drought the less particular buffalo didn't require feed, being content to graze on the course three foot high grass weeds. Not only that, but being draught animals the buffalo's method of walking is gentle and does not dig up the turf the way cattle do.

John keeps camels mainly for the enjoyment of children as Telegraph Farm is also a center of learning for children for miles around. We had no idea the animals were mostly hand fed and when the door to the van was opened, and Elysee had a bucket of feed in her hand, she was astonished and pleased to come face-to-face with Joe Camel (More on Telegraph Farm in my next posting)

CRISSCROSSING AUSTRALIA-KALGOORLIE

The Kalgoorlie Pit. The largest trucks in the world go down there and never return until worn out.

(Extracted from Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand Amazon.com)

Having left the Indian Pacific cross country train at Kalgoorlie, before its final overnight run to Perth, we began day four of our journey back and forth across Australia, with a closer look at the town that epitomizes Australia's former Wild West.

The story begins with an 1892 gold strike in Coolgardie, about 25 miles from present day Kalgoorlie, to which thousands of gold crazed prospectors rushed. Thus when rumors circulated in 1893 that another "find" had been discovered somewhere to the east, about 50 out-of-luck "diggers" left Coolgardie to discover the location of this new mountain of gold. Among them were three hapless, unlucky Irish prospectors named Flanagan, Shea and Patrick Hannon. Hannon's horse became lame and these three lingered behind for the night allowing Hannon time to change the horseshoe. The story is that the lame horse pawed the ground and unearthed a gold nugget.That moment marked the beginning of the richest gold discovery in all Australia, and perhaps the world. Hannon, Shea and Flanagan were soon picking nuggets right off the ground. In a few days Patrick had about 100 ounces, and on June 17, 1893 filed a claim for himself and his two companions, instantly setting off another stampede.

By the end of the year 3000 "diggers" had moved into the area, one of the driest in the world. Many died due to the harsh conditions, water had to be brought 350 miles from Perth, a months journey. Whiskey was free, it was water you paid for.

Since Patrick Hannon picked that 100 ounces of gold off the desert floor over 49,000,000 ounces have been extracted from what is known worldwide as the Golden Mile, the most valuable piece of real estate on the planet. Moreover, it is estimated only half the gold has been extracted. In fact nobody knows. The estimate of future deposits always seems to replace that which has already been extracted.

ACROSS AUSTRALIA BY TRAIN: DAY FOUR

Re-boading the Indian Pacific to begin the run across the barren plain if the Nullarbor.

The conductor had given us a stern warning not to wander too far while in Cook, for once the refueling was complete the train would be leaving for it journey across the Nullarbor, and you don't want to be stranded in the middle of the outback. The Nullarbor (Latin in a way null being none arbor trees...i.e. treeless) is akin to California's Death Valley, but much larger in size. The Indian Pacific travels through this 160,000 square mile arid and treeless plain on the longest straight stretch of rail line in the world; not the slightest deviation for 286 miles. For train rides this is the longest day; a journey where the next meal becomes the highly anticipated event. Bring a good book. I dallied most of the day doing just that, reading the Fatal Shore, about Australia's convict experience; and talking with fellow passengers, mostly Australian, who were, fortunately, the type to make this trip an interesting experience as well.

At about 8pm, we arrived in Kalgoorlie, the site of a historic and immense gold field, and a mile stretch of the world's most expensive real estate. We left the train here, about 500 mils short of its pacific coast destination Perth. If you stay on the train overnight you arrive mid-day on the forth day. Instead we stayed the night in Kalgoorlie, joining a five day bus tour to the far south of Australia along the south sea road, and the Bight of

Australia, then turn north along the Indian Ocean and enter Perth by the "back door", via the Margaret

river wine country. Next I will tell the story about Kalgoorlie, Irish Luck, a US President, and the world richest mine.

ACROSS AUSTRALIA- DAY THREE ON THE INDIAN PACIFIC TRAIN

The hospital tried to stay alive by asking people to get "Crook" sick in Cook

In its "heyday" it cost $3 to play the nine holes. In 100 plus degrees?

After travelling all night from Adelaide we were awakened at 7am in time to prepare for entering the metropolis of Cook; population two. Cook was a town of 300 as recently as 1998; its sole purpose to service the National Railroad. The town boasts a school, swimming pool, hospital, post office and railroad service yards. It even has a golf course without a single blade of grass; a true links course with packed sand greens. The hospital had so little business that amid concerns about being closed by the government, people stopping over on the railroad were encouraged to "...get crook on Cook." (Crook being 'strine for sick).

When the government decided to get out of the railroad business in the '90s, privatizing its interests, Cook became an instant ghost town -an example of how changing government policy can have trickle down consequences.

Today Crook is used only as a changeover point for locomotive drivers, and a refueling stop after a long night run- just before the train starts to cross the Nullibor. This is the only reason we had a chance to stretch our legs. There's no platform, and steps have been placed at the exit doors. The conductor gives us all a stern warning not to cross the tracks, as passing trains in other directions likely will not slow down.. And above all be ready to board when the whistle blows- there are no overnight accommodations in Cook. Not a more desolate railroad stop in the world, with summertime temperatures about 155 degree, and a single digit of annual rainfall. We tried to find some remains of the golf course, but the site could not be distinguished, nature having taken it back. In a few more years there will be little left of this lonely reminder of times past.

Across Australia- Day Two on Indian Pacific Train

Sunday was spent between Broken Hill and Adelaide looking out at mostly barren plains.

That is when one isn't enjoying the lounge car. The bar is behind Elysee in the background.

Leaving Broken Hill mid-morning out train passed through mile after mile of flat bush country devoid of habitation and enterprise. After turning south towards Adelaide there is sufficient annual rainfall to allow viable agriculture. For the last 200 miles you pass through large wheat farms of 3000 acres or more, grazing cattle and many vineyards. We are in the state of South Australia, and Adelaide is proud to have been the first to seriously develop a wine making industry. Today South Australia leads all other states in wine production. Adelaide also leads Australia in automobile manufacturing, and is generally prosperous in many other areas besides agriculture.

Adelaide was settled in 1836, greatly expanded after the great gold rush of 1851, and the center of the city bears the markings of a wonderfully preserved Victorian city. An interesting tale.

Adelaide's main street is King William Street. When the King agreed to have the street named after him, he gave permission provided no street named after a commoner would cross his. This became no small problem as side streets were named after early settlers. Since there were a lot more of them than Kings the problem was solved by a cross street proceeding up to King William Street with one name and continuing on the other side with name of someone else. Ingenious!

We only had about six hours in Adelaide, took a city tour, and left about 6:30. Unfortunately, I left my camara on the train, so no pictures of beautiful Adelaide. Reboarding the Indian Pacific for a long night's journey north, then west along the barren plains. Dinner once more in wonderful period dining car and then off to the lounge car. Great way to travel. I highly recommend it.

Royal Flying Doctor Service

Beech King Airs equipped as ambulances. One is always on standby.

We are still in Broken Hill, stopping over on our cross country train ride aboard the Indian Pacific. That chilly Sunday morning the good people who run the Flying Doctor's Service were good enough to get out their warm houses and give a lecture and tour of this famous Australian institution. RFD's story is unique to Australia. Started by Rev. John Flynn of Queensland, in 1928, to bring emergency medical service to remote outback areas where there were only two doctors in over 2 million square miles. The operation we visited in Broken Hill dates back to 1938 and is entirely voluntary. It is free to patients with revenue coming entirely from donations. Today RFDs cover about 80% of Australia and treat about 160,000 people a year, conducting 17,000 evacuations from 16 bases.

The first RFD was organized in the Queensland town of Cloncurry, where there was a pioneer airline called the Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Service., Quantas. Yes, that is the origin of Quantas Airlines. Not even many Australians know that. Gee whiz!

Overnight to Broken Hill

A deserted Broken Hill on a cold mid-winter Sunday morning

Taking the second seating at breakfast we were in no hurry to leave the train. We had arrived at Broken Hill about 7:30 in Sunday morning, and the town was very quiet. Broken Hill had been a gold mining town for 120 years, and the story goes that more gold has been taken out of that operation during that time than anywhere else in Australia. It is estimated that from the 1880s to the 1950s about a billion dollars in gold came from the mines every year. That is BIG money. The mines are still a private company so the books are not publically available. If you have heard of the British mining company BHP, the largest in the world today, it got its start as Broken Hill Properties and has made many a Brit rich. Unfortunately, being Sunday, and a nippy one at that high on the plains in mid-winter, there was not much going on. Despite the wild west feeling, the town was deserted.

Gold Kangaroo Dining Car

What the romance of the rails was all about.

We left the station around 3:30pm and after getting settled into our compartment, where Elysee informing me I had the upper berth, we made our way to the lounge car for pre-dinner drinks and to meet some of our fellow travelers. It was already lively, as you do not have to wait long for Australians to create a holiday spirit.The dining car was terrific. A throw back to an era long gone, and the food and service were all one could expect. Lots of wine, too.After dinner back to the lounge car we met a New Zealander on his way to Perth, Bob Dansey. It was not long before we were invited to stay with him when we got to New Zealand, and sure enough, some months later that happened.Regarding sleeping on trains. For me, the romance quickly faded. Its like sleeping in a giant cocktail shaker, and every once in a while you get poured out. The allusion to imbibing isn't accidental. A solution to sleeping well on trains is to to be amply "fortified" before turning in.

(Much of the above is from my book Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand which you can read on my web site links at www.marshallpublications.com)

Train Across Australia

E Elysee invites you to board. The Wedge Eagle is the train's
Mascot with a wingspan of nine feet
Very comfortable compartments

One of the advantages of staying for an extended time (in Australia we stayed for three months) is the ability to plan any excursions to meet your schedule, and design an itinerary to suit your interests. We planned and took a twelve-day journey across the continent from Sydney to Perth and back, with many stops along the way. I'm going to begin with our embarkation from the Sydney train station aboard the Indian Pacific. That train makes the three night, 2700 mile journey, stopping along the way at Adelaide, and crossing the 160,00 square mile Nullabor Plain, one of the most desolate places on earth. But I'm getting ahead of myself. We were ticketed for Gold Kangaroo service, a first class ride with sleeping compartments, a wonderful period dining car and a private lounge car with a full service bar and a smoking room for those who still do. All A'board. Come along with Elysee and I, and ask any questions you may have.

(There is more on my website http://www.marshallpublications.com/)

Shearing Sheep in Australia

My Bushlady wife Elysee getting ready to shear

Before and after

While staying at the Avalanche Homestead we learned the art of shearing the sheep, of which Frank Biddle has about 1500. A fellow named Jacky Howe, in 1892, hand sheared 321 sheep in 7 hours and forty minutes, a record. That's one sheep every 1.4 minutes. He must have had forearms like Popeye! Not a man to arm wrestle with! I would like to know if that record still stands for manual shearing.

Visit To The Blue Mountains-Part Three

F Family cabin built in 1887
Oberon, NSW train station now a museum

As I said, we took the long way,stopping at Oberon, and we were thankful for our decision. Oberon taught us a lot about Australian development. Mrs Laurie McMahon, a descendant of pioneers, runs the museum which is dedicated to life in Oberon in yesteryear's. Winter comes with a vengeance to Oberon, at 2000 feet above sea level and exposed to open plains. We were treated to a tour and viewed collected artifacts from the rough days of early settlement, through the advent of the railroad, radio days and up up present times. The farm cabin was in use for almost 100 years and is the real ting. No heat, no plumbing, no electricity even up to the end. It is decked out almost as though you had stopped by at the turn of the century. The railroad doesn't go anywhere. It was built in the early 20s to bring out copper from a local mine. Just as it was completed the copper ran out. And there is an 18 hole golf course that has a unique was of keeping the grass trimmed. Grazing kangaroos. No kidding.

I know this is really out of the way for most tourists, but for the adventurous, give it a try. Or read about it in my book, Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand.

VISIT TO THE BLUE MOUNTAINS-PART TWO

Reading room. HYDRO MAJESTIC HOTEL

Near Katoomba, we found the Hydro Majestic Hotel, a massive resort built by Mark Foy in 1904. This is where prosperous Australians "summered" as was popular during that Golden Era. It had a casino, hugh ballroom, pool room, tea rooms for the ladies. therapeutic baths, and looking across the reading room the glass enclosed men's cigar room. There were cottages across the rail line for maids, chauffeurs, valets and governesses...a place they called Siberia.
During WWII it was converted to a convalescent hospital for American serviceman injured in the battle of the Coral Sea. You must stop by and take a walk through, and time permitting some lunch on the terrace overlooking the mountains.
Leaving the Majestic, rather than take to main road to our overnight destination, we drove a circuitous route of 40 miles through open country to Oberon, not something the average traveler would do. We were glad we did. There is more in my book Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand.

OUR GOLF IN AUSTRALIA

Golf was once in the middle of the outback. A $2 sand greens course.

Number 12 at Moore Park a muni with Sydney in the background

Our golfing experience was different from the United States. If you were a casual tourist and golfing as part of a package or a round or two over a several week vacation you might not notice. But over our thirty rounds of golf in Australia, plus another ten in New Zealand, one difference was that we always walked. Not that you couldn't rent a cart, but the culture did not promote riding. That was fine with us. The second big difference was the cost. The culture of golf in Australia is to make it affordable for everyone. Certainly at select clubs and courses one could spend $200-300 a round. But at Moore Park, a respectable municipal course within the Sydney limits and only a fifteen minute drive from our home in the suburb Coogee, the rate was $26 plus $5 for a pull cart if you did not have your own. At another muni., Kogarah, the cost was $23 and included a beer at the clubhouse after the round. At Moore Park a member has no initiation fee, annual dues are $2700 and as a member you only pay $5 a round. Unlimited golf. Part of the reason for golf's affordability is that the government contributes out of public recreation funds. Also there are slot machines at most clubhouses that also defray costs. Australians like to gamble, and "Pokey" machines are ubiquitous at golf courses. Not overdone, and often set aside, but they are there. One of our favorite courses in the Sydney vicinity was St. Michael's, that had 9 holes alongside the ocean...a mini Pebble Beach. Finally, golf is everywhere in Australia. Way out in the middle of the outback there is a now abandoned 9 hole sand greens golf course that cost $2 to play. The town closed down when the trains changed to just refueling on their way across country. Go golf Australia, its everywhere and you won't find better companions.

Visit to the Blue Mountains-Part 1.

Elysee gazing over the vast Blue Mountains.




The Three Sisters, Blue Mountains NSW Aust.

Our first excursion from Sydney during a three month stay was a three day exploration of the nearby Blue Mountains. These mountains, about a 2 1/2 hour drive west of our summer home near Sydney, offer numerous panoramic vistas, an interesting history, and presented a marked contrast to modern day Sydney.

The Blue Mountains are part of a two-thousand mile chain that sweeps along the east coast of Australia called the Great Dividing Range. So named because it divided the early settlements on Australia's east coast from the vast interior.West of Sydney they rise to an elevation of 3,000 feet. They are very rugged, oftentimes having shear drops of 500 feet or more, and in the late 18th and early 19th century provided a formidable barrier to westward expansion.

Several expeditions had been formed, all failing to find a suitable route through these mountains, until 1813, twenty-five years after the arrival of the First Fleet, Australia first convict settlement. The three adventurers Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth reported their finding to Governor Macquarie and by 1815 a road had been blazed and westward expansion began. Beyond the Blue Mountains the land opens to a vast level plain, fertile fields and an outlet for future expansion and development.

Elysee and I left Coogee about 9am on a Tuesday and followed the same pathway as the three explorers, now called the Great Western Highway, heading for Leura/Katoomba, the location of the Three Sisters and our first overnight stop.

HARBOR BRIDGE

A view of the Opera House and Sydney harbor from near the top of the bridge



Sydney Harbor Bridge, also named the Coat Hanger and the Iron Lung

Since 1998 anyone in good health and there have been many 90 year olds, can climb the iconic Sydney Harbor Bridge. Yes, 1439 steeps steps up to the summit at 440 feet above the harbor. What a great expedience. You are suited up, given a safety lecture and when your groups time comes tethered to a cable to begin your climb. A group of about twenty leaves around every 20 minutes, and I hasten to add it is very safe. Over one-million people have made the climb, including a 100 year old women. The views from the top are unparalleled. Begun in 1924 and called a "giant coat hanger by Sydneysiders, since it also kept so many steel workers busy during the great depression they named it the Iron Lung. It was to be the largest steel arch bridge in the world but by the time it was opened on March 19, 1932 the Bayonne New Jersey bridge had been completed , coming in twenty-inches longer. This will take you about a half-day altogether, you must make an appointed time in advance, and it is a DON'T MISS on my list of things to do in Australia.