CRISSCROSSING AUSTRALIA-KALGOORLIE

The Kalgoorlie Pit. The largest trucks in the world go down there and never return until worn out.

(Extracted from Our Summer in Australia and New Zealand Amazon.com)

Having left the Indian Pacific cross country train at Kalgoorlie, before its final overnight run to Perth, we began day four of our journey back and forth across Australia, with a closer look at the town that epitomizes Australia's former Wild West.

The story begins with an 1892 gold strike in Coolgardie, about 25 miles from present day Kalgoorlie, to which thousands of gold crazed prospectors rushed. Thus when rumors circulated in 1893 that another "find" had been discovered somewhere to the east, about 50 out-of-luck "diggers" left Coolgardie to discover the location of this new mountain of gold. Among them were three hapless, unlucky Irish prospectors named Flanagan, Shea and Patrick Hannon. Hannon's horse became lame and these three lingered behind for the night allowing Hannon time to change the horseshoe. The story is that the lame horse pawed the ground and unearthed a gold nugget.That moment marked the beginning of the richest gold discovery in all Australia, and perhaps the world. Hannon, Shea and Flanagan were soon picking nuggets right off the ground. In a few days Patrick had about 100 ounces, and on June 17, 1893 filed a claim for himself and his two companions, instantly setting off another stampede.

By the end of the year 3000 "diggers" had moved into the area, one of the driest in the world. Many died due to the harsh conditions, water had to be brought 350 miles from Perth, a months journey. Whiskey was free, it was water you paid for.

Since Patrick Hannon picked that 100 ounces of gold off the desert floor over 49,000,000 ounces have been extracted from what is known worldwide as the Golden Mile, the most valuable piece of real estate on the planet. Moreover, it is estimated only half the gold has been extracted. In fact nobody knows. The estimate of future deposits always seems to replace that which has already been extracted.

ACROSS AUSTRALIA BY TRAIN: DAY FOUR

Re-boading the Indian Pacific to begin the run across the barren plain if the Nullarbor.

The conductor had given us a stern warning not to wander too far while in Cook, for once the refueling was complete the train would be leaving for it journey across the Nullarbor, and you don't want to be stranded in the middle of the outback. The Nullarbor (Latin in a way null being none arbor trees...i.e. treeless) is akin to California's Death Valley, but much larger in size. The Indian Pacific travels through this 160,000 square mile arid and treeless plain on the longest straight stretch of rail line in the world; not the slightest deviation for 286 miles. For train rides this is the longest day; a journey where the next meal becomes the highly anticipated event. Bring a good book. I dallied most of the day doing just that, reading the Fatal Shore, about Australia's convict experience; and talking with fellow passengers, mostly Australian, who were, fortunately, the type to make this trip an interesting experience as well.

At about 8pm, we arrived in Kalgoorlie, the site of a historic and immense gold field, and a mile stretch of the world's most expensive real estate. We left the train here, about 500 mils short of its pacific coast destination Perth. If you stay on the train overnight you arrive mid-day on the forth day. Instead we stayed the night in Kalgoorlie, joining a five day bus tour to the far south of Australia along the south sea road, and the Bight of

Australia, then turn north along the Indian Ocean and enter Perth by the "back door", via the Margaret

river wine country. Next I will tell the story about Kalgoorlie, Irish Luck, a US President, and the world richest mine.