AYERS ROCK-CRISSCROSSING AUSTRALIA

ELEGANCE IN THE DESERT

DINNER SITE OFTEN RELOCATED

SETTING SUN ON KATA TJUTA RANGE MILES DISTANT; NATIVE DIDGERIDOO PLAYING BACKGROUND "MUSIC".

(Excerpted from my book: OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND, AMAZON.COM)

Leaving Perth we were once more confronted with the vast emptiness of Australia. The flight from Perth to Ayers Rock is 2260 odd miles, crossing inhospitable terrain, devoid of a trace of Man’s civilizing mark. Frank Lloyd Wright pointed out how nature abhors a straight line. When flying over most of the world’s land mass you can see Man’s imprint below; fence lines, railroad tracks, housing grids, the shapes of ball parks and other geometric sports arenas, and not least of all, multi-storied buildings. Not so, flying over Australia. Within minutes of leaving Perth the
traveler can look down for hours upon nature’s uninterrupted handiwork. Dried riverbeds, long sweeps of red desert dunes, an occasional outcropping, and although they are down there, very little sign of man or beast. Landing at Ayers Rock, a government controlled park area, there are only a few choices of where to stay. On our first evening we attended a twilight dinner called The Sounds of Silence, some miles away in the desert from the complex center. This is an elegant affair, given the desert circumstances, with candlelight, champagne, tablecloths, native food such as kangaroo, emu and crocodile. The dinner site is continuously relocated to lessen any impact on the terrain. The fading light soon gives way to emerging stars. A professional astronomer gave a lecture on the Southern Hemisphere’s night sky,
as more and more nautical twilight faded. The enormous horizon-to-horizon night sky filled with evermore stars, and became strewn with the mist of the Milky Way. Fortunately for us, it was a moonless winter's night, the closest town being 275 miles away, and the desert devoid of air and light pollution. As the last light faded, and Mercury ascended over Mars in the low sky, telescopes and high powered binoculars were made available to further enhance viewing the magnificence of a sky we never see. The sky our grandparents took for granted. The meaning of, and how to read the Southern Cross was explained, Alpha Centurii our closest star was pointed out, and we were asked to hold all conversation and be completely still as we were enveloped by the sounds of silence. Again, to our good fortune, not even the slightest breeze imposed on the naked, soundless, starlit night. Along with all the wine you could drink… it was one hellava night.

PERTH- CRISSCROSSING AUSTRALIA

EXAMPLE OF VERY VICTORIAN BUILDINGS-FREMANTLE


PANORAMIC VIEW OF MODERN PERTH FROM VICTORIAN HEIGHTS
(Excerpted from my book, OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND, AMAZON.COM
We finally made it to Perth! Crossed Australia from Sydney in a week. Now to upgrade and revel in the delights of this big city of 1.3 million. Ah,the Hyatt Regency, Club Floor for three nights. We arrived at 7pm and were being served complimentary cocktails fifteen minutes later, with enough canapés that dining out wasn’t even an option. “Winfield,draw our bath please.” Saturday morning in Perth, Western Australia. Beautiful winter day,clear skies and mid-day temperature about 19c, or 67f, with occasional showers lasting about ten minutes. Boats are out early on the Swan River that runs from Perth to its neighboring port city Fremantle, just 20 minutes away by car, or 45 by ferry. Perth was founded by the British in 1829, and has all the outward skyline appearance of a modern city, while in its heart George IV and Queen Victoria still reign in many of its streets and buildings, especially Fremantle. Like other Australian State Capitals, Perth is oriented towards the ocean and contains 1.3 million of the state’s 1.8 million population. This is a BIG State! Western Australia is a third of the continent, an area of one million square miles, and because of its west coast situation, more oriented towards Africa and Asia than the remainder of Australia. It takes less time to fly from Perth to Singapore than to Sydney. At one time, during the depression of the 1930s, Western Australia even voted for secession, but WWII changed that attitude. Fremantle, or "Freo" in 'Strain, was a major Indian Ocean port for US naval forces during WWII, with submarines taking advantage of its’ proximity.to Japanese shipping throughout the former Dutch East Indies, as well as a home base for US supply and transport ships. Tough duty for WWII! Here is a WWII sailor talking with his son. “Daddy, where were you during the ‘WAR’”. He answers, “Son, I was in the Pacific, in remote Western Australia. Nasty business, WWII, I’d rather not go into detail.” While on the subject of Fremantle, it became what it is one of Australia’s major ports,with closer proximity to Asian markets than Sydney because of C.Y. O’Connor, the same genius who brought the water to Kalgoorlie. Mr. O’Connor built a breakwater and wharf right into the Indian Ocean, where the Swan River empties, thereby creating the port and harbor out of nothing. Today, thanks to C.Y.’s vision, it is one of Australia’s major ports, loading large container ships with Western Australian products on a daily basis. C.Y. was quite a guy, (even if he did take his own life) and a life size statue of the man himself looks out over his creation. Oh yes, in his spare time he designed and oversaw the building of Western Australia’s railroads.