HUNTER VALLEY: GOLF AND WINE

TWO OUT OF MANY HUNTER VALLY MODERN WINERIES.


Before leaving for Sydney we played a round of golf at the Hunter Valley Golf and Country club, a pretentious name that did not live up to its lofty promise. For example, at the time we visited there was no golf clubhouse, as the facility was alleged to be under redevelopment — but there was not much earth being moved that I could see. However, the golf course was fair and reasonable, with a round costing about $35 each. We also visited a resort development associated with Greg Norman. It had potential but oddly, although almost all the currently available lots were sold, only two houses had been built. As in the rest of Australia, there seems to be a lot of property speculation, with, I believe, most people buying the lots in hope of selling them later…perhaps only building if development really takes off. It doesn’t give a prospective purchaser a very good feeling about buying in. Besides, I later learned that the Hunter Valley has only two seasons, spring and fall, with summer temperatures often going above 100 degrees. It was likened to Phoenix in the summer; very hot and dry.

Thursday morning in August found us almost alone in the valley. It was a pleasant day, with temperatures in the mid 60s, but there were very few people about. Hunter Valley competes with many other wine regions we visited spread throughout Australia: south near Adelaid, on the west coast below Perth, the Borrosa valley and so forth. But Hunter Valley is likely to be the oldest, given its proximity to Sydney. Since neither Elysee nor I are one’s to gush over visiting wineries, we selected a couple small tasting rooms, bought a bottle as a gift for our host at Friday’s dinner party, and left for Sydney, my guide and companion insisting we drive only during daylight hours. Elysee’s wine tasting lexicon is still on my mind:

Color: Bruised Purple Thigh
Nose: Snotty
Palette: Wet
Taste: Wood chips and computer chips (maybe some potato chips)
Enjoy now or cellar for 5 to 8 years at an annual return of 3.5

HUNTER VALLEY WINE: I'LL GET TO THAT SOON

THIS IS THE PROTESTANT CHURCH WOOLOMBI, BUILT NEARBY THE CATHOLIC CHURCH ABOUT THE SAME TIME.

Excerpted from Our Summer In Australia and New Zealand, Amazon.com




Woolombi, which means “meeting place” in the Aborigine language, is typical of a
settlement in early to middle 19th century rural Australia. At one time, the valley had a population of over 2,000 with over 200 in the Woolombi township itself. Initially a wheat growing region, the town was developed with permanence in mind, such as having the unusual combination of an Anglican and Catholic Church, both built in the 1840s. In 1893, a disastrous flood severely damaged the wheat crop, and growing of grain was abandoned in favor of grazing, in addition many people were by then working in the numerous collieries throughout the Hunter region.There is much evidence of the primacy of coal to the economy in the small, but quaint, Wollombi museum, which occupies the courthouse, built in 1866.

How things change. Cessnock, in the mid 1800s had a population of about twenty.
Today, Wollombi is an almost deserted crossroads… an artifact of the past, with but a few remaining buildings, and almost no inhabitants. Cessnock, the entry town to the Hunter Valley wine region, now has a population approaching 20,000. Elysee and I stayed at Harrigan’s, a prosperous and growing hotel, newly built in 2001, which featured a rather authentic Irish pub, as well as Irish cooking. Being off season, we received a very good rate of $85 a night, including a full Irish breakfast. Needless to say, Harrigan’s was the center for nightlife, especially at this time of year.

While in the pub, I had the pleasure of witnessing a busload of about thirty newly-made Australian Infantry privates, who came in to celebrate their graduation, after 21 weeks of training at a nearby infantry school. They were with their Platoon Sergeant and Lieutenant, and had been “taxed” a small amount each week during their training ordeal, in anticipation of this brief afternoon of revelry and release; their rite of passage. The Platoon Sergeant put $700 dollars on the bar, announcing they had only three hours to drink it up, “so get with it”. What a command to give a platoon of dried out Aussies who had not been near a beer for months. They began as a somewhat docile, orderly but expectant group, not quite sure if their Sergeant really meant what he said. Elysee and I also saw them at the stroke of their three hour “times-up”.They were a roaring, swaying, jovial mob, a staggering amoeba-like mated mass boarding the bus whose singing only faded away when the bus was far down the road.

HUNTER VALLEY WINE REGION

NOT LACKING FOR STONE THE WOOLOMBI CATHOLIC CHURCH HAS STOOD FORTRESSLIKE ON THE NORTH ROAD SINCE THE 1840S

EXCERPTED FROM MY BOOK: OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND


The Hunter Valley region lies between 150 and 200km north of Sydney…about a
two hour drive. Today, one might compare it to Napa Valley, in relation to San Francisco. A premier wine growing region of many independent vineyards, numerous B & Bs, restaurants, balloon rides, music festivals, a few golf resorts and several wine tasting tours. That’s today. Yesterday was quite different.

In 1798, coal was discovered, by a British officer, Lt. Shortland, while in pursuit of escaped convicts. It was he who named the region after then Governor Capt. John Hunter, R.N., But it wasn’t until 1804, following a convict uprising near Sydney, that the subsequent Governor, Lt. Phillip King, R.N. decided to establish a penal colony at Newcastle, where second offenders would mine the coal and fell the abundant cedar timber, assuming the hard labor would deter others. It was harsh treatment, but ultimately not effective in its intended purpose. Fifteen years, later there were 850 assigned second offenders.

By the 1820s, settlers had expanded into the fertile areas, growing wheat and other
crops desired in Sydney, as well as raising the usual cattle and sheep. The only means of transporting their products and themselves to Sydney was by ship from Newcastle. Therefore, they petitioned the government for a road to be constructed, connecting them to Sydney, 150km away. A formidable task, across rivers and streams and over mountains, in an area offering no natural subsistence, much less shelter, using the most primitive tools. This, at a time when a bullock and a cart would make good time covering 15km in a day, and a man alone on horseback might make Sydney in four. But the scheme had the advantage of getting the convicts away from Newcastle, providing backbreaking labor in appalling conditions, and thereby serving the public good. With construction starting in 1826, and lasting for ten years, what become known as the Great North Road was built using convict labor, with as many as 750 prisoners working on the project at any one time, often still in leg irons weighing 10 to 12 pounds. Today, you can still travel across many of the 30 plus bridge sites, past culverts and walls cut from stone, some weighing over 600kg. As is our practice, Elysee and I branched off from the main road to the Hunter Valley, and followed the convict road to the village of Wollombi, about a twenty minute drive from the central grape growing region of the area.

AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL-CANBERRA

The walls contain the names of all Australian war dead. Poppies are placed by family and friends to commemorate important dates.



The imposing memorial, Tomb of the Unknown in center, memorial walls on each side and a museum in the vast space underneath.

Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND, Amazon.com


The Australian War Memorial, is located directly opposite from Parliament House. These two buildings face each other in a dramatic way. Politicians, from there exalted hilltop site, deliberating on decisions to go to war, need only to look out their window and across the lake at the imposing War Memorial, to be reminded of the consequences. I have visited “Tombs of the Unknown Soldier” in many countries… France, Great Britain, United States, Italy, Turkey and so on. The Australian War Memorial surpasses them all, not only in its respect for the hardships of those who served — particularly in the two World Wars of the last century— but also in the direct, realistic and unadorned manner in which the story of the combatant is told. As in other Tombs of the Unknown, Australia’s is also rendered tastefully and with dignity.

However, unlike the Tomb of the Unknown at Arlington Cemetery, this memorial is without an interposing honor guard, and is covered from the elements while still remaining open, allowing anyone to approach and pay their respects. Also, and very wisely, the Australian Tomb contains the remains of only one serviceman, a soldier from the First World War, representing every unknown serviceman from all of Australia’s conflicts. The gravesite is symbolic, not specific. Unlike the United States, which has an Unknown Soldier gravesite for WWI, WWII, and Korea, resulting in an ongoing controversial opening of the graves, to subject the remains to modern DNA identification analysis. The Australian example is dignified, complete, and without political sentiment.

What further distinguishes the Australian War Memorial is the amazing museum located beneath the building. It’s a vast space, even containing twin engine bombers from
WWII, and realistic displays of a soldier’s life, from Australia’s first overseas encounter in the Boer war, through their participation in Vietnam. It is not simply a collection of captured enemy equipment, but more a paean to the serviceman’s life in combat, told through hundreds of photographs and large dioramas. It doesn’t glorify. It doesn’t put flag rank officers on pedestals. It does honor genuine heroism. You leave shaking your head at what men, and in several examples, women, endured. Also, you better understand the Australian concept of “mateship”, and everyone having a “fair go.” Of course, men from other nations also bond together to mutually endure the hardships of prolonged combat, but it comes through so forcefully in the ANZAC photographs, reinforcing the statement that, at Gallipoli, the Australian nation was born.

By combining their tomb of the unknown soldier with a memorial museum, and in such a dignified, respectufl and somber fashion, the Australians have got it right, and set an example for others, including the United States.

CANBERRA: CHICAGO LANDSCAPER DESIGNED NEW CAPITAL

Parliment Building. Citizens can walk over the building using stairs on either side. Note people on top of the building. Aussies like the idea that they have the only Parliment in the world where the citizens can "walk all over their politicians."




Lake Griffen. City at the left and governmenmt building across the lake to the right.


Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND amazon.com

A little history. When Australia federated in 1901, there was a raging debate between
Sydney and Melbourne as to which city should be the new nation’s capital. Being
unsolvable, it was decided to find a new location within the state of New South Wales, provided it was no closer than 100 miles to Sidney. Those from Melbourne were determined to prevent Sydneysiders from profiting from the new capital, and in those days, 100 miles (or about 160 km) was sufficient distance to deny any useful commercial connection.

A committee was formed to recommend a location, and after a long search of about
40 sites, the small settlement of Canberra was chosen, and almost 925 surrounding square miles were set aside for what is now known as the Australian Capital Territory. By the way, in Aussie the pronunciation is “kain-bruh,” an offshoot of an aboriginal word fittingly meaning “meeting place.”

In 1909, an international competition was conducted to select a designer for the new
city, and from 137 entries, Chicago landscape architect, Walter Burley Griffin, who had never been to Australia, was awarded the contract. What an opportunity! A totally blank canvas upon which to design a nation’s capital — and the resulting Canberra is widely regarded as the most successfully planned city in the world. The main features of Griffin’s plan were an artificially created lake, a federal triangle, (not quite similar to L’Enfant’s design for Washington D.C., but capitalizing on the general idea) broad avenues and many parks, with residential and commercial space opposite the triangle of buildings on the
other side of the lake.

Griffin arrived in 1913, but quit in 1920, over disagreements in design changes. The
work progressed slowly thereafter, interrupted by two World Wars and the Depression, but in 1927, a temporary Parliament building was finally completed, and the government moved from Melbourne. In 1963, Lake Burley Griffin was finally finished, and in 1988, almost sixty years from the opening of its temporary building, the new parliament building was opened, essentially completing Griffin’s plans. Despite Australian criticism of Canberra being provincial, boring, and nothing but a politician’s town, I believe Griffin succeeded admirably.

CAMELS IN AUSTRALIA-PART TWO

LAST VIEW OF AYERS ROCK FROM RINGEE



RINGEE SINGING HIS MORNING SONG WITH AYERS ROCK AS BACKGROUND AS WE POSE IN THOSE STUPID HELMETS


EXCERPTED FROM MY BOOK: OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND, AMAZON.COM

The camels our group rode were 8 to 10 years old, and very well behaved. After all,
considering what they might be made to carry in the old days, we were a very light load for a short ride. An easy day for the camels, so they’d better behave! Our camel was named Ringee,and just our luck, he had an attitude.

When first brought to this camp from Alice Springs,300 miles away, Ringee did not like one of the drivers, peed all over him and drove him from the pen. He also refused to eat. The owners, who are camel careerists, and dearly love them,determined that Ringee’s problem was being separated from his friend of many years, so he was on a hunger strike. Once Ringee and his “mate” were reunited, everything was fine. The driver who Ringee had literally “pissed off” was advised by the owner to return to the pen,and pee on Ringee’s leg. Ringee had to be shown who was in charge! The driver was new to this line of work, and wasn’t sure if he was about to have his own leg peed on twice. But with courage, he took the advice; looked that 400 pound camel in the eye and peed on its leg. It worked! Ringee mellowed, and has been less of a problem since. I would give a lot to see the
photo of this guy looking that huge camel in the eye and calmly pissing on its leg.

We journeyed into the desert, being informed along the way about all the deadly
plants and vermin we were riding by, a tactic I really think was designed to keep us in our saddles, making it easier for the driver. The pace was relaxed, and not at all like some of the tales you hear, as camels are capable of over 40mph, which I can imagine could be quite an experience. I was just thankful Ringee had an attitude change, and was conducting himself as any competent camel should.

Except for the ridiculous helmets we were required to wear because of recent insurance provisos, the camel ride turned out not to be a “silly tourist” attraction, after all. We came away with a large measure of respect for these animals, and had fun, too.

We left Ayers Rock later that day for Sydney, only another 1700 miles, arriving home in Coogee Beach at 6:30pm, in time for our dull but satisfying routine, the evening news and a cocktail.

As a result of our twelve day crisscrossing of the continent we’re seven thousand miles wiser, and more appreciative than ever of what a fine place this Australia is.

CAMELS IN AUSTRALIA. Day 12 of Crisscrossing Australia

OUR CAMEL, RINGEE


Excerpted from my book OUR SUMMER IN AUSTRALIA Amazon.com

Day Twelve. Alright, this is the last day of the journey, so, how about a desert sunrise camel ride, or more factually; a dromedary ride of the one humped type.

ALL ABOUT THE CAMELS. The camel ride was not at all an inane tourist attraction, and I came away with a great respect for these animals. They were very instrumental in the development of early Australia. Initially brought in from Northern India, they immediately proved their value in the hot and dry interior of the country. Able to travel for 300-400 km without water, while carrying five times their weight, they were ideal for tasks such as bringing water to parched miners and hauling large quantities of wool from ranches — some over a thousand from miles from the nearest port. They served as pack animals for expanding the railroads into the interior, and pulled wagons and carriages more efficiently than horses. Some camels have been recorded as going over 650km (400 miles) and two weeks without water. Their demands are small — they can graze on most anything, unlike the horse. They can even drink salt water with no ill effect. After six or eight days of steady work, they need a day’s rest, and then they’re ready to move on. When water becomes available they will fill up with a 100 or so liters, which they can swallow in just a few minutes. They have a long life, well beyond 25 years, if well treated. They’re noted for a discerning personality, for if they don’t like you they will soon let you know by biting or peeing on you. Yet they are very loyal, forming lifelong companionships with other camels and drivers, from which they don’t like to be separated. They are communal animals, and do best with several more camels around them.

CAMELS IN AUSTRALIA. The Australians soon learned it was better to employ drivers that knew how to handle these independently minded animals. They brought in hundreds of Afghans, or in strine, “Ghans,” (that actually were from present day Pakistan) to manage the growing herds. So numerous were the Ghans in the 19th century, one still occasionally comes across a 19thcentury mosque, such as the one I saw in Broken Hill; a poignant reminder of the deep faith of Muslims. Eventually, with the railroad, improved highways, and finally the automobile, the need for camels decreased, and they were turned loose into the vast interior wilderness. That was wonderful! What a great retirement home —natural habitat, no predatory enemies, and best of all, no drivers or work. The cameleers, now without employment and in an alien country, by and large returned to their homeland, but some descendants remain in the outback today.

Presently, Australia has more wild camels than any other country, exports live camels, and camel meat has recently been approved for export. The camel population is increasing, but so far there is no cause for alarm, as they have little harmful effect on the land, in terms of over grazing, or invading inhabited areas. There are no reliable figures, but one government estimate has about 600,000 wild camels enjoying one helluva good time out there!

NEXT POSTING: Our Camel, Ringee, and an amusing camel story.